Nigel Slater’s roots and rice recipe

The recipe
Slice a large chicken breast into thick strips. Warm a couple of tablespoons of groundnut oil in a wok, then add the chicken and let it sizzle for three or four minutes until it has browned lightly, then turn and brown the other side.
Peel 250g of squash or pumpkin, remove the seeds and fibres then cut the flesh into large, bite-sized pieces. Add the squash to the chicken and continue cooking until the flesh is translucent, then finely chop and add a stalk of lemongrass, a small hot chilli, a spring onion and a clove of garlic. Keep stirring the mixture all the time so that nothing burns.
Pour in 750ml of chicken stock and bring to the boil. Continue to simmer for 5-10 minutes until all is tender, then add 100g of chopped cavolo nero or kale. Cook briefly, until the greens are bright and crisp, then check the seasoning and serve.
The trick
Butternut and other thin-skinned squash need no peeling. The thicker-skinned pumpkins do. Keep the skin on the chicken when you slice it, there is much flavour and fat there to enrich the broth.
The twist
Save the seeds from the squash, then toast them until brown, with a little oil in a shallow pan. Salt and eat. This chicken dish is also delicious if you use Brussels tops instead of black cabbage – cavolo nero. Mop up the juices with some crusty white bread.